Pielec bez problēmām.
Tiko ielaists - gāzes pedālis nereaģē.
Pēc 30 sec. - jau reaģe gāzes pedālis, bet vāji.
Pēc 2-3 min. - var dabūt apgriezienus līdz 2500 rpm, bet ar aizturi.
Uzsildot līdz 70C - nekādu izmaiņu.
Mēģinot braukt - nav jaudas, no vietas tikai ar sajūga slīdināšanu.
Kompis kļūdu neuzrāda (lampiņa nedeg).

Kādas prognozes? Netieku no Saulkrastiem līdz servim.

drosele vai arī gāzes pedāļa potenciometrs vai kaut kas starp tiem abiem. VAI arī nomaini degvielas filtru (visticamāk )


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@Scmic

Vainīgais izrādas ir gaisa masas mērītājs.
Atvienojot štekeri atgriežas jauda.

man ir kas liidziigs!   tad galiigi neiet un spied pedaali un deg farsunka -traapa uz kaadu bedri k-kas atkrataas ta pakjer un viss OK!biju arfilaa man pateica ka turbiinaa ir nopluude bet  tas nevar buut1!!!vajadzeeja man uz arfilu braukt kad farsunka dega!

Ko Tu domā ar ""deg forsunka", vai gadījumā deg sarkans motora simbols.
Kad atkārtojas simtomi atvieno gaisa masa mērītāja štekeri.
Es tā nobraucu labu laiku. Tagad kad nomainīju gaisa masas mērītāju nejūtu izmaiņas. Ja nu vienīgi dodot grīdā nav melns dūmu mākonis.

Man bija kkas liidziiigs, bet pie vainas izraadiijaas turbiina, tur tieshaam bija nopluude

Tāds jautājumiņšKā vizuāli atšķirt 2.4JTD motoram vai tas ir 20V,vai 10V,ja nau nekādu uzrakstu???

btw. Labs salīdzinājums 10v vs 20v:
http://www.italiaspeed.com/new_models/new_models_2003/156_restyling/156restyling_02.html

Bet vizuālās atšķirības nezinu

Citāts:

Certain components of the engine are brand new: a cylinder head with hydraulic tappets, steel connecting rods and crankshaft, a piston with an internal channel to carry cooling oil to the main and connecting rod bearings that are made out of different material to the previous unit. The intake and exhaust manifolds are also new: the former is made out of a special high-strength material while the latter is made out of pressure cast aluminium.

The electronic EGR and exhaust gas cooling systems are also new; the lubrication circuit features a new oil pump and an external exchanger (air/oil) for oil cooling; the cooling circuit comes with a new coolant pump. This long series of improvements and changes has culminated in a reliable, powerful engine with low fuel consumption.
Excellent results then, achieved through a new engine control setting; an increase in direct injection pressure from 1350 to 1400 bars; and a new turbocharger setting.
The power units are turbocharged via a Garrett turbocharger with variable geometry turbine that helps improve power delivery by allowing very high torque delivery even at low rpms. Suffice it to say that 90% of maximum torque is available between 1750 and 3500 rpm. These statistics add up to a very pleasant drive plus really sparkling performance on the Alfa 156 and Sportwagon.

The Alfa 156 reaches a top speed of 225 km/h (on the circuit) and accelerates from 0 to 100 km/h in 8.3 seconds. The Sportwagon, on the other hand, takes 8.6 seconds to accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h. With very low fuel consumption all round: combined cycle 6.6 l/100 km, urban cycle 8.8, extra-urban cycle 5.3. The figures recorded by the Sportwagon are respectively 6.7 l/100 km, 8.9 l/100 km and 5.5 l/100 km.

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156GTA, 75TS

Put yourself in a corner and find a way out!

Tad jau manam 2000.g. autiņam drīzāk ir 10V!Es jau sasapņojos

bull.lv rakstīja:

Tāds jautājumiņšKā vizuāli atšķirt 2.4JTD motoram vai tas ir 20V,vai 10V,ja nau nekādu uzrakstu???

vizuaali 20v motoram ir 2 sadales vārpstas un 10v motoram viena.. vismaz taa vajadzeetu buut..
un 20v motors ja nemaldos naak no 2003 gada  


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2.4JTD 20V mjet